Pen-y-Gwryd

With its mountaineering fraternity, scheduled suppers and simple interior, this isolated inn reminds us just a little of an alpine refuge. Mentioned in the Everest Museum in Darjeeling, this long-established climbers' haunt, high in the mountains of Snowdonia, was used as a training base for the 1953 Everest team. Their fading signatures can still be made out, scrawled on the ceiling, and among the memorabilia is the rope that connected Hilary and Tensing on top of the mountain. One snug little room in the homely slate-floored log cabin bar has built-in wall benches and sturdy country chairs. From here you can look out on the surrounding mountain landscape, including to precipitous Moel Siabod beyond the lake opposite. A smaller room has a worthy collection of illustrious boots from famous climbs, and a cosy panelled smoke room has more fascinating climbing mementoes and equipment; darts, pool, board games and table tennis. Purple Moose Glaslyn and Madogs are on handpump and they've several malts. Staying in the comfortable but basic bedrooms can be quite an experience, and the excellent, traditional breakfast is served between 8.30 and 9am (they may serve earlier); dogs £2 a night. The inn has its own chapel (built for the millennium and dedicated by the Archbishop of Wales), sauna and outdoor natural pool, and the garden overlooks a lake.