Cricketers

Attractively updated traditional dining pub, very well run; a nice place to stay

There's the genuine feeling, throughout this well run place, that the longstanding licensees and friendly staff truly care about their customers. Recent years have seen a gentle freshening up of the décor, but it still cleverly keeps all its old-fashioned charm, with just a dash of extra sparkle from some new materials and furnishings. The main area has bays of deep purple button-back banquettes and neat padded leather dining chairs, dark floorboards, very low beams (the padding is a necessity, not a gimmick), and a big open fireplace. Back on the left is more obviously an eating part - two fairly compact carpeted areas, a step between them. The right side is similar but set more formally for dining, and has some big copper and brass pans on its dark beams and timbers. They have well kept Adnams Bitter and a couple of guests such as Woodfordes Wherry and Nelsons Revenge on handpump, Aspalls cider, over a dozen wines by the glass, freshly squeezed orange, pear and apple juices and good coffee; piped music. Signed books by son Jamie are on sale. The attractive front terrace has wicker-look seats around teak tables among colourful flowering shrubs.

As well as sandwiches, seasonal dishes (served with organic vegetables from Jamie's garden) are not cheap but then the ingredients are very good: starters such as ham and leek terrine, bruschetta of wild rocket and home smoked wood pigeon with artichoke pesto, anti pasti platter and smoked haddock and pea risotto, main courses such as bass on warm tomato and olive salad with basil crème fraîche, roast duck with fig and port jus, sauteed king scallops with chorizo, spring onions and saffron potatoes, steak and kidney pie with suet pastry and puddings such as warm treacle tart with whiskey and caramel ice-cream and vanilla and banana crème brûlée with scottish shortbread and an english cheeseboard.